4ZD1 conversion info

[killagem]

Hi all,

After reading the forum n the bit in the workshop about the conversion I bought the motor and got started...!

I'll put it in a kinda order as in the workshop artical:

Step 1: Remove gemini motor

If anyone has ever taken a motor out it is basically that. I had an auto in it and pulled that out at the same time too. Just make sure u remove the radiator I didnt and the fan kinda went thru it! lucky I had a manual radiator with no auto line fittings to replace it.

Step 2: Bolt gemini mounts to the rear mount holes on the 4zd1
Kinda self explanitary, I dont know if this motor is heavier but the rodeo mounts are much more stronger and when installed, the motor shakes a little bit more. I get dash rattle big time at idle so maybe something extra could be dont there like modify the rodeo ones but im just getting by with the gemini ones.

Step 3: Bolt gemini gearbox up to 4zd1
Watch out with this step.... You need to get the rodeo flywheel as gemini one doesnt fit! and a rodeo clutch as well to go on the flywheel. I put in a 4 speed and the belhousing clears the flywheel if anyone is in doubt. Make sure u got a spigot bearing that is the right size too, there was a rodeo one in there that was ok but i dont know if there all the same size. I had to use the rodeo engine to gearbox brackets too as the gemini ones were to long. There was a heater hose pipe at the back of the motor which was supported on a bracket that was on two bellhousing bolts, u need to take that off and put it in after the motor is in as it hits the firewall and doesnt let the motor far enought back for the high part of the sump to clear the rack.

Step 4: Put a spacer in the gearbox member so it sits 20mm higher
Ok, there is a big bolt on the bottom that goes up into the xmember and there is a space cut out for it so it hits nothing when tighened up. As u have to slot the xmember gearbox plate that this bolt screws into it brings this bolt back and out of the cut away that it is in. I just put washers under the bolt head enough so that when the bolt is fully tight it is clear of the above metal that it would have hit if there wasnt a cut away there in the bottom of the gearbox. kinda hard to explain but ull probably get me when u see it.

Step 5: Remove blower cover
You might need to remove the actual blower housing too just depends on how much clearance ur gemini has there. i have a tg and it came very very close i think it left scratch marks...

Step 6: Get hammer and a bar and smash the flange on the DS of the blower housing just above the clutch cable
I just had the motor on a engine crane and hammered a bit then tried to put it in then out, in etc until I had it ok... watch out for the brake lines but

Step 7: Weld a plate to the engine to gearbox mount so u can use a clutch cable
I used a plate with three wholes one for the cable and two others for the bolts I put it in between the bellhousing and bellhousing to motor brackets.

Step 8: Get a Electronic ingnition Coil. Eg Camira or BlueBird S3
Just used the gemini one works fine!

Step 9: Remove rocker cover and the rear stud
Didnt need to remove stud but removed rocket cover... while you have it off adjust the valve clearances and pour oil over the cam and rockers... I put it together and found the clearances were out...

Step 10: Fit gemini alternator on rodeo mount dosnt fit good but 2 bolts and a spacer work good
I put it on and put spacers in but cant get the alignment right still have to fiddle with that one...

Step 11: slot holes on gearbox X-member 10 mm back

Step 12: Drop into car
This was the hardest part of the whole thing i recon. it took me ages. the sump has three graduations and the rack sits below the closest to the block... the first gradustion goes over the rack alright but the second I had to bash the firwall a bit to get the motor on enough of a angle to get down past the second graduation. now that I think about it it would probably be easier to put the motor in less gearbox and then u wouldnt have to bash the firewall...!! its all trial n error I suppose ur bound to stuff sumthing.

Seriously thinking about it now that would be the way to go if I didnt have the gearbox there I wouldnt have to worry about getting angles when putting it in it would just go in... lol ops... oh well bash marks add character!!

the other steps are kinda self explanitary...
You might have to get a wiring diagram but because there is solinoids in the carb off the rodeo I just put a weber on there n saved the hastle...

But after putting it all in there i put the dizzy in and the cap hit the firewall!!
Ok another hard one to explain but here goes...
There is a bold that screws a plate into the block n that plate has the sud on it that holds the dizzy in place i putted that bolt out and twisted the dizzy clockwise till the plate passed the screw whole then inserted the screw so the plate rests against the bolt instead of going thru the whole this put the dizzy on enough of an angle to clear the firewall. the timing was out of course but I took the dizzy out and put it one tooth clockwise and it was dead on when I checked it with the timing light....

Timing: It took me about one full day to remove and put in the motor. But then here and there as I hooked up all the components as I collected parts needed

Cost: about $6-700 all up thats doing it all myself.

anymore questions feel free to ask...

[Sik_Gemi]

Did the extractors bolt up wiht out any probs?

[killagem]

dont have extractors....

i heard that rodeo ones go to low and some gemini ones dont reach past the bottom of the firewall just depends on the ones u have

[maDGeMvAN]

I had gemini extractors on my 4zd1. They fitted fine. The same extractors are now on my g161 with no problems.