Coil --(Jeff)

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The coil ihave in my gem is a stocker and is fucked
what is the best replacement for mine
is it that bosh GT ?????????

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I run a bosch GT40
I used to run a bosch GT40R
Before that I ran a stock coil

The two bosch coils did the same job equally well, which just goes to prove that the coil is far from the weak link in a gemini ignition system... (for those who don't know, the weak link is the points)

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what can i do to change the points
and electric dizzy at $395 ??
is there a cheaper solotion
better points ???

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The electric dizzy is about it, not a pleasant thought is it, nevermind though, the ignition system (including the points) isn't the weak point in the engine bay, so until ignition becomes a problem (high static compression ratio and/or high revs) don't worry too much.

A person who I have the utmost of respect for and who knows more about cars than I know about geminis told me to buy one particular type of points, the ones that have a small hole in the centre of the contacts, apparently they allow any gases which form because of electricity arcing across to escape, or so he tells me.

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what jets should i use in a 32.36 webber with a stage 4 crow cam 10:1 comp DIY porting extractors and 2 inch to 2 1/2 inch system
and a cold air intake
0 - 100 curently high 9 sec with the old cortina jets ect.??
any help
they want to charge 200 to put i on a dyno and gas analizer
that would be the best but i dont have that cash at the moment
so any help plz

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I don't know weber tuning, it is just not something I have done. Somebody out ther must, well anyone?

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What carby do u run on your gemini
stock ???????

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I have stated on a number of occasions that Gertrude's engine is as stock as, with body, suspension, braking and interior work being first on my list of priorities.

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The carby I pulled off my motor before putting it on my gemmy was weber, 27/26 from memory but this is two years ago so it is probably wrong, it is still sitting in my garage, might find a use for it someday, but it won't be on gertrude.

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Sounds like a 32/36 weber. 26/27 is the size of the primary and secondary venturis whilst the 32/36 is teh size of the butterflies.

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$200 just to jet your carby. Dude go somewhere else, theyre trying to rip you off big time. Most joints charge about $50 an hour, and it wouldn't even take that long to jet your carby and do your timing as well. As far as jets go, in my 32/36, I used to run a 140 and a 170 I think, but I changed them and the air correction jets so often, its hard to remember. I would recommend keeping the 140 in the primary and trying to drill out the secondary to about 150-160. No bigger. You have to remeber that as more air flows through your carby, it will draw more fuel through the jet. Just because you have higher compression and a bigger cam, doesn't really mean you need a richer mixture, which is what bigger jets will give you. This is not your biggest problem however. You biggest problem is vaccuum, or lack of it to be more precise. If you know a bit about this carby, you will have discovered the power valve. This turns off at a certain level of vacuum (representing cruising) and turns on at full load represented by no vaccuum, ie. flooring the gas pedal. With your crow cam, you are going to have very low vacuum at idle, possibly causing your power valve to be open at idle and particularly while cruising, making your engine run very rich and blow black smoke. My soltion to this was to simply cut the spring on the rod that pushes the power valve down. (if you pull the lid off teh carby, you'll see the rod with a spring wrapped around it. You can try cutting a few coils off this spring so the power valve will stay closed at lower vacuums, but the best fix is to speak to someone who sells performance weber bits, and ask for a power valve that closes as a lower vacuum.