gemini suspension

jazza · newbie Joined: 24 Jan 2002 Posts: 3

can anyone tell me whats a good suspension combination to have on my gemini?

pjhsv · rice boy Joined: 05 Oct 2001 Posts: 16

One that keeps the chassis off the ground, and the tyres on the road.

pjhsv

RJM · tinkerer Joined: 10 Oct 2001 Posts: 109

Try lowered king springs, nolathane bushes all round and whiteline sway bar / panhard rod..

Dave · tinkerer Joined: 04 Oct 2001 Posts: 322

The cheapest (legal) method is a set of lowered Pedders springs and GSR (Gas Sport Ryder) shocks. My car has them and the handling is fairly neutral. It'll understeer if you're too violent, but really, it turns in very very well.

However, if you've got the cash, you should speak with Adam, who is a bit of a suspension guru.

Of course, any suspension modification isn't worth shit of your rubbers are all stuffed, so at a pinch, at least get a set of rubber rubbers if you can't afford polyurethane ones. I renewed all the rubbers on my car with rubber rubbers, and like I said, I'm happy with the result.

But when my car gets a huge engine, it'll probably need swaybars and all sorts of stuff....

Adam · Site Admin Joined: 04 Oct 2001 Posts: 682

I'll go you one further, also replace your tie-rod ends, rack ends and upper and lower balljoints. The difference this simple maintainence work can make to gemini steering is incredible.

Ben Wight · backyard mechanic Joined: 04 Oct 2001 Posts: 946

I've always been under the impression that urethane bushes are only good for certain applications such as the bushes for the swaybar or for the steering shaft coupler. Actual rubber bushes perform better where twisting (not slipping) occurs like in the upper and lower control arms, and where compression would occur like the shock mounts.

Is this theory flawed?

Ben Wight

Slug · tinkerer Joined: 06 Oct 2001 Posts: 196

Not Really ....

Racegem · backyard mechanic Joined: 30 Jan 2002 Posts: 987

Basically Ben, O.E.M. put rubber in the suspension componentry as a compromise between handling and comfort. Granny doesn't want her teeth rattling loose when she drives over her local rail crossing, they don't sell cars that way.The more places you put urethane, the firmer/harsher and less slop you get. Depending on your budget, I'd start with sway bars, panhard rod, and steering coupler. Then front and rear control arms. The only place I wouldn't recommend would be shockers, unless youv'e got super hard race suspension, it will shorten the life of them and you wont notice the difference much anyway.

To the original question, it's entirely up to your budget and preferences. My theory is you can never have a 4WD too high, or a street car too low. But seriously it doesn't really matter which brand you go for, many people have different opinions as to what's good and what's not. Have a chat to your local suspension specialists such as Pedders, most of them don't build reputations on bad advice. One thing to think about, most manufacturers that produce springs as well as shockers will make them to work together as a package.
Take heed of Adam's advice too, no point having the lowest, hardest ride if your balljoint lets go and spears you across the freeway at 110!

Ben Wight · backyard mechanic Joined: 04 Oct 2001 Posts: 946

Speaking of control arms in particular, the rubber bushes are designed to twist, whereas I assume urethane bushes would only be able to slip, wouln't this slipping wear them out quickly, like the edges of the control arm slicing into the urethane bush every time the control arms go up or down?

Ben Wight

Benjamin · backyard mechanic Joined: 05 Oct 2001 Posts: 525

I had Pedders tell me that the urethane bushes in my TX were chopped and that was the reason for the adverse handing. I took a look at the bushes myself and they were in pristine nick. Needless to say, I won't go anywhere near Pedders and will never trust their advice again.

The bushes never chopped out over the 4 years I used them.

Racegem · backyard mechanic Joined: 30 Jan 2002 Posts: 987

Most bushes that are fitted to control arms, rubber, urethane, brass, whatever, are usually sleeved with a steel bush that the locating bolt goes through so as not to twist directly on the bush. They're also supplied with a special grease to reduce some of the squeaking.

Please don't judge the whole orchard by one or two bad apples. I work in automotive retail and believe me, there are two different opinions for every three mechanics/backyarders. I was only using Pedders as an example as the guys in the Dandenong store in Victoria have a very good reputation for what they do and recommend. Certainly if you feel that they told you that your bushes were stuffed, to get you to spend money, when they weren't, then I would not go back to them. Had a similar experience with a big name exhaust joint. Took my Coupe into them to replace the tail section from diff back, he got out a bloddy big pair of stilsens/multi-grips and started to squeeze the pipe halfway up the car saying it was soft and the whole system needed replacing. I can squeeze brand new exhaust tube with a big pair of multi-grips!!!

Anyway, not saying that you don't, but unless you have had mechanical training, it can be a fine line between something being worn and "probably should" be replaced, and 'in servicable' or "pristine" condition. Any Joe should be able to tell when something's f**ked.