desperate times and measures

Tweakin TE · rice boy Joined: 15 Aug 2003 Posts: 22

hi guys, at tafe today i thwacked the gemmi on the dyno, pulled out a whopping 38 ponies. yep, 38. mind you it's a stock auto TE, but i thought 125kmh in 2nd gear in an auto was half decent.

SO i picked up the trading post after going to the wreckers for a new engine, theyn wanted $800 for a g200, but a dood in the trading post wants $300 for a G180 bottom end to suit reco. any good? i was gonna just put new bearings/seals/rings and gaskets. i was gonna track down a big valve TX head, and i wanted to bore it to 2.2 or something reasonably large, then turbo it eventually. what would i have to do to the engine, not including turbo manifolds, to get the engine ready to handle some psi?

thanks for your help
Andrew

HOP_A_LONG · tinkerer Joined: 27 Aug 2003 Posts: 274

If you want forced induction you cant have the high compression that the B.V. head will bring on the G181. Best bet is to go for the G181 head with different valves, springs and modified combustion chamber.
GO FOR BLOOD!

LEGLESS LARRY

Soop · backyard mechanic Joined: 30 May 2002 Posts: 748

My advice would be to bore the g180 out to 2L and fit 2L pistons. ACL gear will be fine.

This basically gives you a 2L bottom end, the g180's are easier to find and rev a litte nicer.

Get a 2L head, get it ported out a bit and put some heavy duty valve springs in.

The 2L head will drop the comp to around 8:1 or something which is much better for turbo applications where you are going to have a variable amount of compression in the engine.

Tweakin TE · rice boy Joined: 15 Aug 2003 Posts: 22

thanks for your help guys. if i got the g180, bored it to 2L specs, it'd still rev the same/similar caus the stroke hasn't changed right? i'll prolly wear the engine without the turbo, you know, apprentice mechanics don't get paid fuck all. porting the head is making inlet/exhaust ports larger hey?? would i need bigger valves/lifters/springs/rockers for this?

thanks for your help guys

Josh · backyard mechanic Joined: 04 Oct 2001 Posts: 602

if you start fiddling around with port sizes it's worth getting a upgraded cam like stage 2 or 3... Your valves will be ok as long as you have a a big valve head and just becarefull not to get too much matarial machined off the head

Tweakin TE · rice boy Joined: 15 Aug 2003 Posts: 22

i was thinking about it last night, what i'm gonna do is get the 180, bore it to 2L, get a 1600 head, i don't care which one, use that for now while i work on the 2L head. put 2L forged pistons, new rings, bearings, get it all cleaned.

when i get the turbo, i'll use the 2L head, copper head gaskets, heavy duty valve springs, turbo spec cam, enlarge inlet and exhaust ports, polish ONLY the exhaust ports and extractors and all that normal shit.

apart from this *without the turbo* do i ned anything else? like radiators, alternators, ignition coils, fuel pump/lines?

and whats a decent carb to thwack on the top?

thanks for everything

Josh · backyard mechanic Joined: 04 Oct 2001 Posts: 602

Get the bottom end balanced too. Mine was $330 and they did the rods, crank, pistons, flywheel and pressure plate and the harmonic balancer while they did the crank. A good carby will be a the 34 ADM off a XE or XF ford. I'll have a site up soon of the carby conversion