suspension

[TX III]

hey all, i need a new set of (4) shocks and springs for my car, what would be a good set of shocks and a set of lowered springs to use and an approximate price?
cheers,

Matt

[TXcoupe]

i think shocks are $200 all round and springs are $140 so dont pay anymore than $500

[Ben Wight]

All depends on exactly what you want from your suspension, do you want the car to handle well, do you want it to sit low, if so, how low, do you want it to be low and handle well?

If you get lowered springs, you should get a shock absorber that matches the rate of the springs. A lot of shocks are valved to give different dampenning at different displacements, ie. the shock has to be selected to match the height that the spings normally sit at.

If you are getting standard height springs, then off the shelf monroe GT gas shockers, or something similar would probably work well. They would probably work good for a drop of around 2" also. Any more, and I would be looking for a specialised shock. This is all on the assumption that you care about handling. If not, then just buy anything.

Springs are usually pretty cheap, around 110 a pair is the cheapest I have seen them for (lovells I think). I cant remember what shocks are worth. Talk to whilteline or someone like that if you are serious about handling. If not, talk to autobarn or someone like that.

[Adam]

As always Ben, stunningly well said, I'll forward your comments about whiteline onto my boss. The whiteline spring part numbers for standard height springs are (fr)78312 (rear)79608. Our 'Low' springs 78614 and 79606 front and rear respectively.

Just to show I am not biased and pushing our whiteline products, I use monroe GT gas shocks, unlike the sensatracs they are not valved differently for different heights. We don't sell them, although we do offer KYBs (oh and Konis for those in the know who have the dough).

If you lower your car, to do the job properly (something a lot of places don't manage) you need to fit an adjustable panhard rod and adjust the height (via shims) of the torque tube mount to the body.

For handling's sake, the first thing to do (most people expect me to mention swaybars here, but they come later) is check the condition of and replace/adjust where necessary of the balljoints, tie-rod ends, rack ends, steering rack, wheel-bearings, steering column flexible coupling and front wheel alignment.

Then worry about swaybars, we (whiteline) offer larger front and rear swaybars, either fixed or adjustable, unless you plan on fitting a 200hp motor I probably wouldn't bother with the adjustable front, just go fixed, but I definitely think the adjustable rear is worth it.

I mentioned wheel alignment earlier, geminis have no adjustament apart from front toe which is unfortunate. However you can adjust the front caster with a whiteline KCA315 caster correction kit.

The springs I mentioned are available for $140 a pair from the whiteline webstore (www.whiteline.com.au/store) plus the cost of freight to your front door or alternatively by them from one of our distributors. As for the shocks, if you want KYBs I can get you the part number and if you decide on the GT gas shocks then don't pay more than $80 a pair.

[Woz]

just to agree with you guys here - ive nearly finished my suspension upgrade and it makes one hell of a difference. you just wont believe how different your bar feels when its done. well worth the money, its something that will not only make your car fly around corners like never before; but make your car that much safer. i think the most important part of the handling becides springs & shocks would have to be the control arm bushes, tie rod ends, ball joints and those rubber things that go between the steering rack and the chassis.

I forked it out and also bought a fully reco'ed steering rack; which i thought was probably unnessacery, but found out that my existing rack had a bit of movement in the left half of it anyhow. The upper control arm in my gemmi was so fucked that i had to oxy it out as well as the bolt, and found out that both the lower arms were also disfigured and it took a bit of work to fit undammaged ones back in.

the thing im kinda pointing out is that it may take a while to do the upgrade; i spent about 3 fullish days with one of my friends on my car; and theres still things i need to finish off like bearings etc; so prepare to be off the road for at least 2 days just in case!!!

cheers, woz

[Adam]

The only bushes I haven't replaced yet are the trailing arms and the panhard rod. The two other things I haven't replaced yet are the wheel bearings and the steering rack.

The rack didn't feel like it had play... but it does, reversing down my driveway the front wheel caught on the edge of the conrete tracks, ripped the steering wheel from my hands and now the steering wheel points ninety degrees to the right when you are going straight, instead of straight ahead. So I'll be replacing that soon, I am trying to hunt down a quick ratio rack.

As for the wheel bearings, I have the kit here, but I want to source some TX stub axles for later use in a big brake swap and do it all at once.

[martin]

Whats the difference between TX stubs and later axles?

And also is the exhaust manifold on the TX sedan the same as the TX coupe manifold that everyone always seems to talk about?

[martin]

Whats the difference between TX stubs and later axles?

And also is the exhaust manifold on the TX sedan the same as the TX coupe manifold that everyone always seems to talk about?

[Adam]

TX stub axles use a plate between the stub axle and the brake caliper, this is effectively 'cast-in' on the later models so that the caliper bolts straight to the stub axle, when you want to fix larger brakes, it is easier to use the TX stubs.