Conrods!

hellholefred · rice boy Joined: 03 Dec 2001 Posts: 18

Hi ya all,
I just pulled my whole engine apart today except for the crank and pistons as the bolt at the front of the crank holding the pulley on was to tight 4 me!
To the point! Should i put shorter conrods in it and domed pistons to make it rev out more or longer conrods and cupped pistons?
Any advise would be kewl as im rebuilding it soon!

Gold TX Sleeper · backyard mechanic Joined: 05 Feb 2002 Posts: 509

If it's a G161z then i would personally be turfing it and getting hold of a G180z or G200z for a couple of hundred that is in need of a rebuild and going reasonably wild on it. If you've got the cash for custom rods and/or pistons, then this would be the most logical option. If you wish to retain your original engine, then i would be putting a set of longer rods and short skirt pistons in it.
I would suggest spending more of you concentration and cash on the head and fuel system, this will be where you will determine most of the personality of your engine.
It mainly comes down to how you want your power to be delivered, if burnouts and traffic light grand prix torque is your aim, then longer rods are your go. If rolling start highway revs and the occasional curcuit sprint is your aim then stock length rods, a hefty overbore and professional head work is your go.
As for your crank pulley bolt dillema, get hold of an air compressor and air gun - it worked for me.
Jasyn...

TXcoupe · petrol head Joined: 05 Oct 2001 Posts: 1675

if u havent tqaken the flywheel off yet get a mate to put a bar on the flywheel bolts and u turn the crank bolt at the front it take ages but it does come off

As for working a motor well if its a 1600 go big bore and stock rods and lotys of head work and better springs - valve springs help a engine rev - and dont ever listen to someone who tells u that a gemini does not have double valve springs and that they will brake the valve collet as it is pure crap

hellholefred · rice boy Joined: 03 Dec 2001 Posts: 18

Yeah thanks guys!
I put 2 bolts in the back were the fly wheel is and put my biggest spanner (25mm)in the back between the bolts and jammed it up against the engine stand! Then put a breaker bar on the nut and fitted some of my old exhaust pipe on the end of that the get the leaverage to crack it! AND I GOT IT!!
Yeah i have a G161 block and if i go a 1.8L or 2.0L block will i have to get an engineers cetificate?? Also is the block the same size in length to fit on the same cross member and the trans bolt on to it with out any modification???

TXcoupe · petrol head Joined: 05 Oct 2001 Posts: 1675

the g180 and g200 are the same family and will bolt in with NO OTHER MODS at all

hellholefred · rice boy Joined: 03 Dec 2001 Posts: 18

yeah but what about the G161 is it the same as the G180 and G200, will all the bolts fit in the right spot from the G161 onto the say G200??

Gold TX Sleeper · backyard mechanic Joined: 05 Feb 2002 Posts: 509

As TXcoupe stated - No other mods!!! None, Nada, Zip, Zilch, Zero, nothing is needed to bolt it in - period ! The only thing that came close to being a mod for my G200 swap was that i retained the G200 alternator. All that was needed was to use the new alternator bracket, as the lower bolt holes in it were slightly bigger or smaller (cant remember but it's insignificant). And the alternator plug was a little different, 1 minute of reconnecting the new one and it was done. I could have kept my original alternator but it was shagged.
An engineers cert. is up to what state you live in, in QLD it isn't necessary. Most states are the same.
Jasyn...

TXcoupe · petrol head Joined: 05 Oct 2001 Posts: 1675

jasyn u u have MSN or icq?