Gemini TE --(Andrew)

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I just got an old TE and was thinking about fixing it up... i don't know shit all about cars but i want to know what i should get done to it to give it some more balls. Im gettin a reconditioned motor in it to start with, but i am unsure of what i should do next. Any suggestions???

I live in brisbane so if anyone knows any decent mechanics could you please let me know... thankz

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Ok, You would be crazy to hand over the cash for a reco motor and THEN go looking for power, instead find yourself a nice two litre and have that reconditioned, a mild cam,10:1 compression. Should be enough to keep you happy (for a while...).

Good mechanic, hmm, my mechanic is in Redcliffe, I am in Logan, but I figure you will want a mechanic somewhat closer to home.

Although a gemini being a gemini there isn't much that you can't do yourself (1. rebuilding engines, 2. Popping the lower balljoints, 3.A Anything else??).

Now I realise I go against the grain here, but the first things I would do to a gemini are;
Inspect and where necessary replace the wheel bearings, rack ends, tie-rod ends, upper balljoints, lower balljoints, front brake pads, rear brake shoes, brake fluid, rear slave cylinders, pinion oil seal and gearbox rear main seal.

Once that is done the car should be a good base to start modifications...
One set of 4 monroe GT gas shocks $160 ($160)
Front and Rear King Springs $260 ($420)
Front and rear whiteline swaybars $300 ($720)

Add to this a set of good tyres (yoko A509 or A539 get my vote)

Now if you do all of this, you will have a car that goes fast, turns like it is on rails and stops too.

Where in Brisbane are you?

ICQ 40093715

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Im in northern suburbs of bris... morningside area

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Yeah, Like that Adam Gibson said - should have got a G200 or something. But what's done is done, right?

I thoroughly agree with what he said regarding handling - getting a Gemini to handle is easy!

But you were asking for engine mods, right? Well, it's all got to be bolt on stuff.

This is what I did to give my Gemini more balls - it pulls good burnouts and certainly kicks arse in traffic. I've taken it around Mallala Raceway and Collingrove Hillclimbs and it doesn't go too bad, revs freely and cleanly and doesn't suck much juice (much is a comparitive term, I think). I'll try to get you some prices too:

Weber carburettor - DGAV or DGV - these have a mechanical second throat (Gemini's Nikki carby's 2nd throat is vacuum operated this = poo). This means that if you put your boot down a little bit, you go a little bit, if you boot it lots, you go lots. Fuel usage is obviously connected to this. It'll use less if you drive like a grannie and use more if you fang it. Fairly common fact in everything, I guess! So get a DGV (no choke) or DGAV, which has an auto-choke. Actually, I think that the auto-choke mechanism fouls on something, but that's OK, cause you can take it off - just don't show that to the motor rego people! So a Weber should cost about $50-$250 depending on condition. I'd take it straight to a carby specialist and say 'fix the busted bits on this'. A full recond should only cost about $150 at the most, so a $50 carby isn't that bad (just don't stick it on the car first - it'll end in tears, believe me).

You'll need and adaptor plate which can be got or ordered in from Sprint Auto Parts or somewhere similar. About $30.

You'll notice that the carby and the thermostat housing are basically hard against each other, so any thermo problems - deal with them before sticking this Weber on.

The carby needs a return spring. These are free, or $5 for a newie.

Finally, it'll need to blow out those gasses a little quicker, so get yourself a set of extractors ($300 approx) or a TX manifold is almost as good - some say better ($40ish) and for that price, who can argue?

Finally, don't cruise around with a pea-shooter exhaust - bung a 2" on it all the way through. Don't put a huge tip on it - if it's got a massive turbo and puts through like a zillion horsepower then that's OK cause the exhaust is going to be a 3" or something sick anyway. But for you and me, a 2" all the way through is fine, gives it breathing space, is not too loud but is still throaty like a Gemini should be and not too expensive either - about $200-$300 - correct me if I'm wrong because although I got a 2" put through my TD van about 4 months ago, I can't bloody remember a price at all.

Anyway, that's some sound advice to spruce up a Gemini engine using just bolt on stuff, and not too expensive either.

Put it with Andrew's stuff ($ mounting, I know) and you'll kick arse! Just don't run any Silvias - they're shite, but they're fast.

Dave

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Kick ass thanks for all this info. Great site by the way

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Prices on a 2" sports exhaust is $160 fitted. I've got a set of extractors that were given to me and they also quoted $40 on adding those (new gaskets, etc)
This is at Right price exhaust on Moss St. Slack creek (surely you must of heard of this street) I did this on friday last week so i don't think it will change! Just don't go any bigger then 2" if you are keeping the 1600 or even if you add a 2L.
Handling..... Get some fat Dunlop SP Sports 2000 They handle like rails!!! I've at set of 14" mags with 185/60/14 and they make a HUGE difrence! About the springs!! Go to REPCO and you should be able to pay $100 for Low King Springs! And another $100 for the back! You can only go Low and not super low since king spring doesn't make super lows for geminis!!! Sucks hey!!
Try to go for the 2L engine since they are a great bolt on job!!!!!

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Unless Repco is having a super special the king springs should be $130 a pair, that is what I was quoted by the factory and by everywhere else, I ended up buying the from GSA wholesale on Aranda St. Which is about 500metres up the road from moss street.