what the hell is wrms

[g161stroker]

concerning stereo gear here
cheers people and does anyone have a meter that mesurs db in melb ( brother wants to know his db reading) hes got the loudest car round

[IDAREU2]

Peak vs RMS:
You know that peak power is 2*RMS power. If a speaker is actually capable of handling 150 watts of peak power it would only be rated to handle 75 watts RMS. If a speaker is rated to handle 150 watts 'music power', it may mean that the speaker will take only very short bursts of power approaching 150 watts RMS. Even if there are two speakers from different manufacturers which have the same power ratings, one of the manufacturers may be more conservative in their ratings than the other manufacturer. The more conservatively rated speaker would be more likely to handle its rated power. Bottom line, beware of power ratings on speakers. Knowing that some manufacturers are less than honest in their power ratings, will likely help you to make better decisions when buying speakers.

http://www.eatel.net/~amptech/elecdisc/voltages.htm

[peteymate]

alpines ratings are always lower, but often perform better

[QldRobbo]

that's all fine and dandy, and not a bad explanation, except for the fack that Peak Power is not 2*RMS power, depends entirely on the speaker. I have 6x9's that are 250wmax, 40wrms, and splits that are 40wrms 120wmax. But yeah, it's basically the power that the speaker can safely handle, wether it be for sustained periods or short bursts is up to the manufacturer.

[Mooch]

Peak power is basically what the manufacturer put through the speaker or what the amp pumped out etc etc for about one mili second b4 it blew. Its means absolutely nothing in comparing component performance. RMS power as IDAREU2 said is what the component can really handle, it's usually as a rough guide about 1/3 peak power. Peak power is only a marketing tool.

RMS is also referred to NOMINAL power and peak power sometimes referred to as PMPO (peak music power output).

RMS is'nt the only factor to look at when choosing ur gear, perhaps one of the biggest factors is efficiency. This is it's ability to produce better quality whilst chewing less wattage. In the case of an amp, big clean power from a low voltage pre out. Thus Alpine gear does't have the highest of the rms ratings in comparison but it's clarity is awesome. Match ur components and always slightly over power your speakers/subs to avoid cooking them.

Almost like with an engine, better to run a tad rich then a tad lean.

Buy what sounds right to you and use your own music to test speakers, not the digitally enhanced shit they give you because that will make the worst gear sound good.

Mooch
www.geocities.com/mygemi

[corvette]

well as a nice touch to any of my cars they will get the best audio gear availibla for under 10 grand

stats go forth as this

2x 12" cerwinvega strokers
Single: 1,000 watts
Dual: 500 watts per
voice coil (continuous
unclipped power per
EIA RS-426C)

ive got the dual voice coils

2x 6x9 cerwinvegas for mid rang sound qaulity at 150watts continues

then 2x cerwinvega 7" splits for front fill and sound quality rated at 200watts continuos all running from MTX amps and a New head unit coming from canada in a few days

and all installed by me and this rated in a VL was at 169db pink noise not recorded so in other words it wasnt done at a DB comp

[g161stroker]

i got pioneer deh-p7350 head unit runnin to 220 watt 6 split pioneers (ones that have the bullet in center)
runnin into 3 1000 watt 12 inch vdo dayton subs i got a alpine and kicker amp poweren

[Reddez]

dunno if you'll actually see this, but anyways, if you want more info ask me specifically, or email me at matthew.redwood@defence.gov.au I'm an electronics tech and was just talking about watt ratings, etc last nite...