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2litre Block --(Frank)

 
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hod rodder


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PostPosted: Sun Dec 10, 2000 8:11 pm    Post subject: 2litre Block --(Frank) Reply with quote

I was just wondering how much modifications there is to fit a 1600 head onto a 2Litre Rodeo Block because i have been told there is no modifications needed but tha guy who told me talks shit!!
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hod rodder


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PostPosted: Sun Dec 10, 2000 9:57 pm    Post subject: Re: 2litre Block --(Keith ) Reply with quote

You'll need to have most of the water ways modified, other than that there the same. Speak to an engine reconditioner if this is possible and how much it will cost to do the job.
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hod rodder


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PostPosted: Mon Dec 11, 2000 5:20 am    Post subject: Re: 2litre Block --(Adam Gibson) Reply with quote

Yeah, the water passages won't line up, instead find yourself a G180 bottom end and bore it out to two litres.
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hod rodder


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PostPosted: Mon Dec 11, 2000 6:49 am    Post subject: Re: 2litre Block --(Mark) Reply with quote

Thats crap. If you match up a 1600 head to a 2 litre head youll find only two out of twelve water jackets dont line up. The two water jackets that dont line up are about 2cm long, and about 1cm apart, so the waterjackets overlap, so instead of getting 2cm of coolant flow past those two jackets, you only get 1cm of flow.
There are never any overheating problems, and there is never any damage to the head. They bolt straight on no dramas.
Still, I dont recommend doing it. The 1600 head has a 82mm combustion chamber, and the 2litre has an 87mm bore.That leaves 5mm of overhang. When the air/fuel mixture burns, any burning below the 5mm overhang instead of going into the combustion chamber, goes sideways along the flat overhang and hits the headgasket. You will blow head gaskets every 6 months or so.
A 1600 head gives great compression, so it goes harder, but a 2litre head has better port design and valve angle. They flow way more with a little bit of work. I recommend porting and shaving a 2litre head and then sticking in a big cam.
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hod rodder


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PostPosted: Mon Dec 11, 2000 10:38 am    Post subject: Re: 2litre Block --(Adam Gibson) Reply with quote

Or, you could just use a G161 head on a G180 bottom and have ALL of the waterjacket line up, either way...

As for the 82mm diameter combustion chamber on a 87mm bore, this isn't particularly differnt (see also 'identical') to the (somewhat outdated) concept of a squish area, deliberately included in (old 2 valve) combustion chamber designs to aid in creating enough turbulence to ensure good fuel atomisation and dispersion, of course this for me is a little academic, because while the head was off being ported the combustion chambers were smoothed off meaning the overhang would be even smaller.

Regarding port design and valve angle, I can't and won't comment until I can look into it more, which means hunting down a 2 litre head (anyone?). Although I would not expect much difference, the two motors are, as we both know, incredibly similar. I will be surprised if I find that a well ported g161 head (tip: the large exhaust valve heads have a casting number [located below where the mechanical fuel pump bolts up] of 7, 14 or 21.) flows significantly better on a flow bench than a comparably ported g200 head.

Speaking of which, anyone in queensland want a G161 engine, or two even, "you want em, you can take em".
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hod rodder


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PostPosted: Tue Dec 12, 2000 3:47 am    Post subject: Re: 2litre Block --(Mark) Reply with quote

If you want to argue lets go ahead. How many heads have you had fully ported? My gemini rolls 134hp aspirated at the rear wheels on a dyno dynamics dyno. Its running a 60" over 1800 bottom end with a 2 litre head. It has a static compression ratio of 9.0:1. Can you beat 134hp at the wheels with 9.0:1 compression? Ive done lots of trials over quite a few years and found the port angle into the combustion chamber to be a lot better. This allows highporting the inlet side and D-porting the exhaust side. My car rolls 247hp at the wheels with 150hp nos running into it. Ive tried 1600 heads, and they dont make anywhere near as much power using similar techniques, and also other more conventional designs.
As far as your squish area theory, you may or may not be correct, but it makes little difference. These cars that have this principal prolly dont have only 7mm between cylinder walls and dont run siamesed cylinders, thereby having more surface area for the headgasket to seal on. When people bore 2 litres 40" and leave only 5mm between cylinders it causes even more blown headgaskets.
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hod rodder


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PostPosted: Tue Dec 12, 2000 4:18 am    Post subject: Re: 2litre Block --(Adam Gibson) Reply with quote

Calm it down, I have no interest in arguing, at no point to I actually dispute any of your figures, I said I would look into it. I am sure you are an excellent engine builder, I am not in a position to question your ability. I will do my best to get in contact with a number of head shops, I will quote phone numbers and where possible flow figures, I have no interest in either proving or disproving a point, I am truly interested in a disinterested manner. I hope that your misinterpretation of my intentions is now adequately explained to avoid further confusion on your part. Have a nice day, try and relax and keep up the gemini cause.
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hod rodder


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PostPosted: Sun Dec 17, 2000 9:30 am    Post subject: Re: 2litre Block --(Slug) Reply with quote

To answer the original posters question, the to heads are interchangable. you can put a 1600 head on any of the g series blocks (161,180.200) there are no modifications needed. now to get into the disusion with the above 2 people there is NO differance in valve angle between any head. that includes 161, 180, 200 also 4zb1 c1 d1 and e1
and twin cam models.
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hod rodder


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PostPosted: Mon Dec 18, 2000 5:36 am    Post subject: Re: 2litre Block --(Adam Gibson) Reply with quote

Slugmeister, you seem to know your shit (or at the very best act like it, which is good enough for me), you got any experience in dropping in a 4ZE1?
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